Thursday, January 15, 2015

I Blame Jon Krakauer




Kevin Jorgeson's hands post El Capitan ascent

Bored at the airport somewhere in the middle states in the summer of ‘97 I picked up a copy of “Into Thin Air,” Jon Krakauer’s personal account of the 1996 tragedy on Mount Everest which claimed the lives of eight climbers and remains one of the worst disasters in modern climbing history. 32,000 feet over Utah, unable to stray my eyes from the pages, forget the flashing seatbelt sign, I was blissfully unaware at the time that this paperback impulse buy would spawn a 17-year fascination with ice climbing and the men and women brave (or foolish) enough to premeditatedly flirt with death.


Throughout the ensuing years I have devoured every book on every adrenaline junkie I could find to feed my insatiable addiction, hands trembling at the unthinkable possibility of exhausting the existing supply of nonfiction narratives, bios and autobiographies of climbers on every continent. Assuaged only by the probability that each climbing season would bring with it the publication of new adventurers, I felt simultaneously ashamed by my vicarious fascination with their sometimes-tragic outcomes. 


My obsession started with Everest. I won’t say why, because it’s obvious. Mountaineers like Reinhold Messner, Ed Viesturs, Aracelli Segarra and Stephen Venables were followed with intensity, as I marked the climbing seasons in my calendar and watched the online expedition coverage like a Giants fan at the Super Bowl.

Spanish climber, Aracelli Segarra


In 2000, at the height of my addiction, I found myself conversing with high-altitude expert Peter Hackett about the effects of oxygen deprivation on the brain. As an artist well familiar with and unafraid to swim below the surface of conventional thought processes, O2 depletion was a subject I could sink my teeth into, if not an integral clue to making my esoteric quest a bit more terrestrial. 

That EMT certification I completed ‘just becuz’ helped with the technical jargon; but as my craving intensified, soon it wasn’t enough to simply read the accounts of who climbed what, where and how high, nor was it sufficient to demystify their physiological components. It seemed nothing would cure my addiction; I had to know WHY. Who were these people and why did they do it?

As I tirelessly exhausted every icy summit from Denali to Kilimanjaro, I made my way down through the desert to the rock walls of El Capitan & Moab, riveted by Aron’s Ralston’s 2004 account of his plunge off Utah's Horseshoe Canyon, thinking only a Scorpio (or perhaps an Aries) could find oneself confronted by and okay with contemplating the life or death inevitability of amputating one's own arm.  

American Climber, Aron Ralston- Selfie (Aron Ralston)


As I cursed my diminutive exterior and sickening lack of courage, lamenting that I probably never would know the answers to my questions or personally experience how it feels to stand on the summit of K2, I came to the conclusion that maybe it doesn’t really matter after all. I considered that likewise, many of my fascinations will probably never know how it feels to be gripped by the intensity of a subjectively perfect artistic creation – those moments when you feel the brain and hand and eyes communicating in tangible sharable synchronicity.
  

Mountaineer and Filmmaker, David Breashears



Actor Jake Gyllenhaal to portray Scot Fisher in 2015’s “Everest”


Climbing is an art as painting is an art, as music and mathematics and diplomacy and empathy and intuition are arts, and we are all gifted at something.

I have chosen the path of Existentialism – “condemned to be free,” so rather than mourn the things that are beyond reach, I will use 2015 to celebrate and honour the uniqueness and differences in each of us and consider the possibility that it may be the only way humanity can unite as one (at least in my mind).

Oh yes, I almost forgot…the resolutions keep coming!

Resolution No. 11: While I appreciate the thought…I promise to never post Youtube homages of my work on my blog or Facebook page.

Resolution No. 12: Actually, I also promise to try to keep my Facebook page quiescent…because let’s face it, ‘all things must pass’…



Here’s to Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson, and to bravery, passion and the “art” of living - with you every breathtaking nail-biting step!  Intensity?  You bet!





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